When you make a corset designed to have fully boned panels there are some very important things you should remember, here are a few pointers for you in regards to making a fully boned bodice…

>Working out how much continuous steel (if your cutting your own corset bones) or how many bones of what length to purchase can be tricky. My solution is not to order bones until you’ve sewn your corset bone channels – then take a dressmakers measuring tape and measure the channels. If your buying continuous steel then measure your first channel, hold onto the spot on the tape where the channel ends and move this to the start of the next so your measuring a continuous meter, tally up your meters as you go. If your using spiral steels don’t forget your U caps for the ends – so you’ll still need to count the number of bones and order double that number of these as you’ll need two per bone.

>You should always bone your panels before cutting them. This sounds like an odd way round, and indeed you may be wondering how one goes about boning an uncut panel. Well when I say don’t cut until they’re boned what I mean is don’t cut too close to your final panel size. Draw on your pattern lines in chalk then give an extra half inch to an inch all round when you cut them. When you sew your boning channels and slip in your corsetry boning the panel will change shape and size slightly. If your corset is intended for corset training it will be very important you get the sizing right so place your paper pattern piece back over the boned panel and now draw the lines for cutting.

TBC…

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I’ve been asked about coutil and how to tell it from regular cottons. First let me explain what it is -

Coutil is a heavy cotton fabric designed specifically to make corset training corsets from. It has the least amount of stretch of any fabric available and is incredibly strong while also allowing the skin to breathe. Magic huh?

You can spot cotton coutil by its weave pattern. It has a herringbone weave to it, with it being stronger as the weave gets smaller. So a big 1inch wide herringbone pattern would be less than ideal. It can come mixed with other fabrics, polyester cotton mix is the most common but these feel plastic in comparison and if your going to be corset Training over 10 hours a day your skin will thank you for choosing a 100% cotton coutil.

Coutil also comes in satins, these are almost as strong but don’t have a herringbone weave so are harder to spot. It’s best to buy from corsetry suppliers to guarantee your getting the good stuff but if you come across it in a fabric store you can tell its quality from the price tag usually – it’s very expensive, and by giving it a tug to check the stretch resistance.

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When making your corset training corset you should now know from my last post that steel bones are the way to go. You’ll also know that spiral steels are a lot more flexible and bend in many more directions than sprung steels. What you might not know is that when you make a corset, visually the effect of using the two different steels can give your corset different looks.

Again it’s to do with the bendable nature of the two steels. Sprung steel bends less so will actually give you a sleeker look, holding the original cut of the corset pattern. Where as spiral will conform to your body shape more closely. For example a round tummy will be held flatter by a corset training corset with sprung steels.

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We talked in the last post about the perils of using plastic bones to make a corset with, but which type of steel will suit you and your corset?

The main difference between sprung (the flat strips) and spiral (the wire wound tightly into strips) is their bendability. Unlike plastic that weakens if it bends too much, steels can bend a great deal further without developing weak points and kinks. This is great as the body needs to bend and stretch during everyday activities. A corset training corset needs to be robust and allow for this movement as it is worn for 8 hours plus a day.

Both steel types are springy enough for everyday corset training but spiral steel bones will give more movement as they bend a lot easier than their solid counterparts which like to spring back into their original position, hence the name ‘sprung steel bones’.

Spirals also bend in directions the solid steels can’t. Spiral will bend sideways and twist which means it’s the only type you can use for boning diagonally over say the curve of the hips. Creative boning you see on high end corsets is normally done with thin 5mm spiral which puts up little resistance but is great for boning whole panels or panel sections. I recently boned a whole bodice with a few hundred of these.

So if you need more support for say plus sized corsets or back support, use sprung steel bones. If your priority is freedom of movement, eg you lead an active lifestyle or your making a corset for an inexperienced corset wearer who won’t be used to the restrictive garment, opt for spiral steel boning.

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There are a few types of material used to make corset bones from and as a beginner learning to make a corset for the first time, you can be forgiven for opting for the plastic option. Using steel in a garment can seem a scary and uncomfortable prospect.

Steel bones are however, the most comfortable material you can use. Steel supports the body in a way that plastic bones can’t. Plastics will bend and then become weak at those points where they have bent. They can then snap after extended wear. They’re useless for corset training because of these traits and somewhat dangerous too. A broken bone can go through the lining of a corset and pierce the skin. If you want to make a corset suitable for waist training you will have to use steels.

Corset steels come in two types –
Sprung steel – which is a solid springy strip of steel normally covered in a white plastic coating.
Spiral steel – this is made of a steel wire. Two steel wires are wound into a tight strip of spirals. Check out the picture below for the plastic, sprung steel and spiral steel types. For corset training corsets you need to use steel, so plastics are only a viable option for stage costumes, lingerie or fancy dress.

In my next post I’ll talk about the properties of sprung and spiral steels to help you pick the right one for your corset.

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So earlier we talked about zip closures, but can you make a corset with any other kinds besides the traditional busk?

Well, yes, there are several methods of front closure in use on corset training corsets.

Lacing – yes I know it seems obvious but it’s often overlooked, you can lace yourself in back and front. It looks ever so stunning to see a corset with several panels of lacing, often front back and sides. This works well for a dramatic evening ensemble but is as time consuming as lacing into a front closed corset.

Swing lock clasps – these have become so popular you can now buy them along side steel bones that have been drilled with holes for them. Exotic looking yet as strong as a normal busk they’re fast to get on and off but do require riveting.

Buckles -
Very steampunk, these can work but normally they’re teamed with another method, eg a zip. Used over a normal busk to disguise it you can enjoy the look of a buckled bodice with all the strength of the hidden busk. Ideal for corset training where you need a strong closure.

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We all know the traditional front opening method for a corset is the busk – a series of metal loops and knobs welded to two sprung steel corset bones. Nice and solid, unlikely to brake or bend.

But what if you want to make a corset with a zipper closure? Well, while using a zipper down the front to close your corset isn’t likely to be as problem free or as strong a method as the busk, it can still be used. Be warned though, buying a zip-up corset ‘off the peg’ means it’s very unlikely to be of a corset training standard.

If you do decide to zip-up when you make a corset, make sure you get an industrial strength zip! More the sort you get on sofa cushions than summer dresses

So how about other closures? Well we’ll talk more about other options in the next post…

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…
Continuing from yesterday’s discussion on outer corset fabrics, there are a number of heavyweight materials that add that feeling of quality you just don’t get from cheap ready mades.

Brocades are a very popular choice, the heavy ones of course, not the cheaper ones you can get. You should be able to tell from handling a fabric if it is of a decent thickness.

For corset training the heavy duty twills and cottons are a good choice as they add much needed strength. Corset making coutil comes in satin finishes which is ideal but very expensive. You can often buy it by the half or quarter meter however, so you only need pay for what you plan to use.

If your looking to make a corset on the cheap but still want too quality try recycling old cushions! This is a great little tip as the thick fabrics used to upholster cushions, sofas and curtains are made to take the wear,tear and body weight of an active family using them. Scan the local thrift shops for vintage drapes, heavyweight bed sheets and scatter cushions.

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Have you ever noticed those cheap corsets you see for sale online, or on girls in adverts for premium *ahem* men’s lines. They’re normally covered in a lightweight satin fabric that wrinkles and puckers around the seams.

Using cheap or light weight material on a corset is the quickest way to make the corset -look- cheap! A corset training corset is a very small and highly curved garment that has to change shape with the different positions of the body. You need an outer material that will lay flat over the thick cotton lining.

If your more experienced at making a corset and really want to use lighter weight materials I suggest getting an iron on backing fabric for them. If your going to make a corset for the first time however, your best bet is to go for something heavyweight. Upholstery fabrics are the best, they lay flatter on account of their thickness and add strength for corset training purposes.

TBC…

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Your body will change shape instantly the moment you put on a proper corset training corset and tighten the laces. This is because the corset will displace the fat around your middle and hold your body in the shape of the constructed garment, so you can literally design your own body shape. However your body will return to its natural state once you take off the corset. Yes its a shame it can’t just stay put.

So what, if any are the permanent effects that can be achieved with a corset and how long do they take to make permanent?

Rib re-shaping

The only permanent change you can make to your body using corset training is to the lower ribs, which will compress over time to follow the shape of your corset. For this you’ll need a conical corset rather than one with an hour glass shape as these types leave room for the ribcage. Click here for more details on corset training shapes. The above and below pictures are a little extreme as they are copies from historic drawings, but it gives you an idea of the corset training before and after effects. The bottom floating ribs are easily reshaped as they’re not attached at the front. But it will still take a good 6 months to make a significant difference.

Internal Organs

If you plan on tight lacing to the extreme, your internal organs will be affected. The corset will restrict your waist, causing your organs to shift. This does place added pressure on your organs but this is similar to the pressure a woman’s body goes through during pregnancy. The female body is designed to take the added pressure and organ movement but if you plan on undertaking extreme tight lacing you should do so under your doctors supervision.

Body shape

The fact that the corset training before and after effects are not permanent and your body shape is merely held in position until the corset is removed, does not mean that corset training won’t have some effect on your body shape over time. We are talking years though, rather than months. The ribs are a solid bone structure so are unlikely to fully revert back to their original position, soft tissue however, will tend to expand back to its original shape. You would be best advised to corset train as a way of maintaining a slender figure rather than obtaining it, ie someone who starts to tight lace as a young woman will keep her figure thin even as an older woman. Thats why in Victorian times women where corseted as children. The body would form around the corset shape allowing them to maintain the waist size of a young teen. If you do waist train down to a tiny size and maintain it for several years before stopping, you’ll probably remain a great deal thinner than you would have been for several years. However there are reports of it taking under a year for the body to return to its previous size as, just like after pregnancy, the torso seems to remember its natural state. This really does vary from one person to the next though. Corset training really is more a way of life than an alternative to the surgeons knife or a healthy lifestyle. It’s no quick fix and should be undertaken for the joy of tight lacing and with a ‘long term’ mindset.

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