For all the waist trainers out there looking to make a corset for the first time I have a free corset pattern for you to try out! If your new to corset training this will be a great introduction to the world of tight lacing – the waist corset pattern. If your just starting out as a corset seamstress this is again a great pattern for beginners as there is no busk and being a short corset made from 7 pieces theres a lot less sewing to do!
If your experienced at corset training this may not be the corset for you but may still be useful for wearing when your planning to do light to moderate exercise (even though its only a waist corset pattern I still don’t recommend jumping on the treadmill in it!)
‘So where can I get this amazing corset training/sewing wonder?’ I hear you cry, why on the corset pattern page (link along the top of the website). This is a completely free corset pattern and if you get your friends to download it you’ll get a booklet free too! This will guide you to the best online places to get supplies as well as tell you how to work out the best size to print your corset pattern. Yes, its printable and comes in sizes 8 – 18 aren’t I good to you! So check out the pattern page, scroll down through the beautiful corset training patterns to the bottom, where you’ll find this free corset pattern and instructions on how to download and get your pattern book.
We have a new article up on the articles page called How To Make A Bodice, Not A Corset. The point of which is to give you a bit more info on the difference between a bodice pattern and a Corset Pattern as well as the main differences between corset making and learning how to make a bodice.
All the skills needed are the same but there will still be some aspects of the bodice pattern not covered in basic corset design. Things like straps, tabs and the infamous fully boned panel.
Another thing to remember about the boned bodice or ‘stays’ is that the bodice pattern, by design, isn’t a good corset training choice due to its shape and lack of support below the waist line. That aside if you want a dramatic look for a period costume or fancy dress outfit and you don’t mind the odd gasp of admiration or jealous stare (who would) than an Elizabethan bodice pattern is the obvious choice for the corset maker.
I have been asked on numerous occasions to simply explain how to alter a corset pattern to fit someone bigger or smaller than the pattern is intended for. The easiest way to explain is with pictures. Click any of the photos below for bigger images.
So you have your corset pattern like this -
This is a pattern for half a corset so measure the waist line of each piece and add them together to get half the waist. Double this and you have the total waist size for this corset pattern.
Measure your waist size (or the person who will wear it) if the corset is to be smaller than their waist take off 2 – 4 inches to get the size you need the pattern to be.
You may need to add a few inches to the waistline to make it fit, or take off a few.
Say the pattern above will make a corset with a 24inch waist but I need it to have a 27inch waist – so 3 inches bigger. The pieces above are for half the corset so I need to add 1.5 inches to them. I decide where to add them by looking at the pieces; I decide to add 0.25 inches to each piece with the exception of the thinnest one which I’ll add 0.5 to. If I were taking away 1.5 I might decide to take more away from the fatest piece. The added width does not have to be perfectly distributed, don’t over think this!
Now you simply cut the pieces down the middle and move them apart to make them bigger or together to make them smaller. The pictures below show how easy it is to alter this corset pattern.
Pattern piece we will be altering.
Cut down the middle, if your making the corset wider you will need a piece of scrap paper behind to stick the halves down on.
(Once you are competent with this method you can cut at the waist line too and angle the top or bottom in to make the bust or hips smaller, or angle out to make larger).
Use a ruler or tape measure to get the alteration the right size.
Stick the pieces back together and your done! You are ready to make a corset with your new pattern!
Remember the golden rule: Always make a mock up to check sizing, always always.
The bodice pattern is taking shape finally. We’re nearly there – yay – I’ve just got the edges to finish off. Like with all my new corset patterns, I couldn’t resist trying it on before it’s finished, just to check the sizing is right of course! So here are some photos so you can see how its looking, the fit is just right and I can’t wait to see how the tabs look once I’ve cut them (they’re all stuck together still to avoid premature fraying) I’ll be carefully cutting them appart and edging them in a few days time. First I need a rest and some retail therapy! I think the sewing machine will appreciate a bit of a rest and some quiet time too! I’ve been filming each stage as I go, this printable corset pattern will have its own video guide and work book as its a specialist bodice pattern. So the filming has been making the whole process take a lot longer. I hate being on film too so my nerves are shot! Click on the pics for bigger versions and a closer look. The red fabric is looking amazing, its my first use of heavy weight material as I always opt for the light cottons with the colourful designs. This bodice pattern may have converted me though! The feel is so much more luxurious and the sheen it has is fantastic.
Learning how to make a corset with fully boned panels has been time consuming but worth it, I love the bone channels and the effect they give.
Today I started the filming for the exciting new Elizabethan bodice pattern! Yes filming! The next pattern in the printable patterns range will come with an optional workbook and video guide.
I’ve again been looking for a way to make my patterns easier to follow. The idea is that, like with the corset making DVD, nothing is more straightforward than seeing how its done. Having an instructional PDF workbook and MP4 video to download alongside the printable pattern is intended to make it possible for even the novice to complete this fully boned bodice pattern.
The Elizabethan corset pattern comes together…slowly. The use of fully boned panels is new to me and I’m learning how, to make a corset with side by side boning throughout takes time! (And lots of spiral steel!) But I think you’ll agree it’s
looking like it’ll be worth it! My boyfriend seems to think I’ll be bullet proof in this bodice pattern but I won’t be testing the theory! It certainly has a completely different quality and feel to a corset pattern with boning at the seams only.
…and after all that practise, my sewing has never been straighter!
This month is my Elizabethan Corset Pattern month for me but I should be calling it Bodice Pattern month really. The corsets from this period are rather different from the more familiar Victorian corset patterns as I’m finding out!
A fully boned bodice us not something in my comfort zone but I’m enjoying the conical shape of the period and of course – the challenge!
One of my recent clients; George has agreed to let me include the making of his corset on Corset Training .net! This is very exciting as most of my clients want to keep their custom corset private. But George is a very flamboyant artist with a public image to match. This corset will be for attending gallery events and public appearances; which will make it a very exciting project indeed! You can subscribe to my RSS feed using the button thats at the top right of this page to follow George’s corset construction, but for now lets look at his first mock up.
George is unfortunately very hard to pin down but after two cancelled sessions we agreed to meet in the city. Here you can see the first mock up of the corset pattern; which I call the soft mock up as I don’t put any boning into it – getting the length of the corset right comes first as I cut all my own boning to size. George wants a corset more for show to be worn over shirts than for corset training purposes, so I kept the first mock up quite loose. The length is fine but we have agreed it needs taking in maybe 4 inches as he wants it quite tight. It is to be waistcoat-like with a masculine silhouette, of blue embroidered peacock feather brocade, straight bottomed, and half cupped for wearing with padding when he’s in full costume.
I’m really enjoying working with George – I will get a female client on here one day tho, I promise! Work to be done for George’s 2nd fitting – hard mock up: Needs taking in further. Cut panels and remove 4inches width all over, cut and insert boning – all bones to be spiral steel except lacing bones.
Click on the images to enlarge